Even if it's series resistance is markedly different changing the shunt and multiplier is a whole lot easier than the above repairs.Īll the S meters that are used in CB’s that I ran across over the years are measuring volts, not current. I have a few tricks for micro soldering if you decide to proceed.įind another movement that will fit in the original meter. Put it under high magnification and see if something can be done. Some can be saved but in the end it's tedious, exacting work that I won't do anymore. Before this is tried verify that the spring isn't bound and that the moving coil does move. The lacquer or glue can be softened by heat like the application of a fine tip soldering point for a few seconds. Work slow and patient with the meter in a vise of some sort and use one hand to steady the other. Luckily if no one has been in there with a club it has a good memory for it's original shape. This is just fiddles until it is carefully put right. The spring can be subjected to G forces that bind the spring onto itself. Extending the arm slightly with a small piece of wire to bridge the gap works here. Subjected to an overload the hair thin wire parts but "usually" leaves a pigtail not quite long enough to reach the arm. The connection between the moving coil and the tab seen poking out from under the spring, The spring itself, and the spring's attachment seen to the right.
Meter faults other than a seized pivot are located in three places.
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